Nice NICE

Find a hotel about four blocks from the old town where we stayed last time.  Nothing fancy, but the A/C in the rooms makes up for the heat in the windowless hallways.  The place we stayed last time is avalable for $ 45 a night, but too small for three.  Go to a restaraunt we ate at before and had a great dinner.  Donna had fish, Betty, fish soup, and I had carbonarra, which was fabulous.  next morning we headed out to the flower market tha Nice is famous for.  Only.............it has transitioned into an antique market, apparently for the day.  Not a flower in sight, so we head just past it to the Promenade de' Inglais.  This promenade runs the entire length of the city from West to East.  At the west end is the airport, and when the planes take off they come right a you before banking out to the sea.  Really cool sight.

Betty is doing fine and seems to be enjoying the walk.  We normally take our golf clubs as a way to "slow down"..................Betty and Julia compensate this trip.  I need to aplogize for a comment I made previously where i indicted that we are hoping for more help when we get back.  As it turns out, i was unaware of the many offers to help out. 

After Nice, we head to St. Maxime, which is about eight miles before St. Tropez.  Couldn't have found a better location---right next to the chuch in the center of town.  (good thing the bells don't ring between 10 at night and eight in the morning)  the street were on is a walking street around the church.  We set up our table and chairs in it and relax in the afternoon sun people watching.  This place gets three hundred days of sunshine a year............Our view is across the road to the marina and the sea.  We see cruise ships everyday unloading in St. Tropez, and feel fortunate to be here rather than there.  Drove to Aix in Provence for a little sightseeing and market walking.  From there we headed back to Flayosc, where we stayed with eric, Char, and Sienna 11 years ago.

We hit a "deversion" in the road and rely on Emily to get us straightened out.  She does, so we think.
Imagine if you will a twelve mile logging road that has been cut out once with a bull dozer.  Throw in some deep pools of muddy standing water, three or four tunnels with no lighting, and nothing in sight.  thats the road.  Run across three women hiking and ask if we're heading to Flayosc, which they say we are.  So we continue, until in the mirror I see a Gendarme van behind me.  I know I'm screwed.  I pull over to the side and they continue by with a friendly wave.  This assures us that there will be light at the end of the tunnel.  We reach Flayosc but the restaraunt is closed................

Yesterday we headed to Borme les Mimosas, which is named for a flower and not a champagne cocktail.  Hit a little bistro for lunch and are knocked out by the food.  Donna orders the menu, Betty has fish soup, and I had tartare.  Donnas starter is a THE freshest tomato ever, which has been blanched, then filled with tiny tiny mozzerella balls and basil and olive oil, surrounded by a basil infused sauce and a tomato infused sauce.  (She posted a pic on facebook)  It was amazing.  Bettys fish soup had a unique flavor that neither Donna or I had ever tasted.  Turns out it was finished with star anise-----which gave it an amazing layer of flavor.

Today is Saturday and we're leaving here to head to Collioure, but not until we watch the airshow that starts today at 11:00.  Stunt planes to military jets---they practiced yesterday and it looks amazing!

The Grass IS Greener

Leaving the Alsace, we're heading south through Switzerland, where we're planning on staying a night in the Alps.  once we hit the border, the scenery changes.  (But first--we have to buy a pass that allows to drive in Switzerland for a year-----for $40----even thouh we're not going to be there for 24 hours)  The landscape goes from the farm fields in France to the greenest fields that rival Ireland. Then, we notice the livestock,  huge cattle, goats, and sheep, all with the traditional bell around their necks.  When we slow, we open the window and hear a symphony............

We have a choice of driving over the Alps or taking a car train though them, which is my preference.   It's the coolest thing-------you pay your money, get in line, much like the ferries at home, and then you drive onto specially designed train cars that you park on.  Then, you take off thought the darkest tunnel you can imagine, at a speed that you can't fathom, all whicle sitting in your car listening to a book on tape.  Twenty minutes later, you end up on the other side of the Alps, in a beautiful valley between the Swiss Alps and Italian Alps.  Our plan is to spend a night in a small village-----which turns out to be an ugly city, so we head over the Simplon pass, one of my favorite drives, and head to Stresa on Lake Maggiore for the night.  We stayed at the same hotel we were in about 20 - 25 years ago, right across from the Lake.  Had dinner and hit the rack.  Breakfast was nondescript, and we headed to Liguria on the Italian Riviera.  The plan was couple of days there, but the weather was questionable so we headed on to Antibbes to find a place to stay.  (This was our first ad lib of the trip and it wasn't much fun.  It was a Sunday, the town was crowded, the TI was closed and it seemed hopeless.)  So we headed up the road ten miles to Cannes to stay there..........no such luck...........there was a HUGE television convention with companies like HBO, Showtime, Nat'l Geo and the like-----------from ALL over the world.  the cheapest room we could find was over $300 a night so we headed to Nice.

Bet you were wondering.......

If I'd ever talk about ood!  Well,  in it's your lucky day.   When we first got here and were getting over jet lag in Britanny, a grocery store roast chicken took care of us for a couple of days.  didn't eat out, as it just wasn't right getting over the time difference............would have been a waste.  In Brugge, our host reccomended some incredible restaraunts, we ate at one for Betty's 89th, and had an incredible meal, based on seafood.  Lobster, shrimp, mussels, etc.  A bit pricy but worth the splurge---the waiter made a big deal out of it and the sparkler on her desert could have caught the restaraunt on fire if not aimed well.

We did takeout the next night....coquille st. jauque from the golden carp restaraunt.  One side is the most expensive seafood place in the world...........the other side sells the same things for takeout at bargain prices.  Great dinner in a large scallop shell.  Went to the ocean and had mussels, which is what you must do in Belgium.  Donna had Flemish stew---which was remarkable.  It must be the beer that they cook the meat in, which adds a layer of flavor that I've never had before.  Amazing.

Amsterdam is known for pot and not one to cook in.......the food there isn't anything to write home about.  the only thing that either I or Donna can remember is "bitterball"  or as Donna calls it deep fried gravy".   It was amazing and something I will try to replicate when we get back.  if I can come close to what we had i will be very happy. 

Now were in the Alsace...................................FOOD MOVES UP A COUPLE OF NOTCHES!  Cooked some chicken for dinner one night.   The chicken is so different than anything we get in the states.  Fresh and hormone free range is the norm here.  With a mushroom onion cream sauce, on top of some spatzle, it was a home run.  Today we ate at a restaraunt called Au Trotthus in Riquewhir.  It was the top reccomended restaraunt in the town.  Met by the owner at the door, we had the most amazing Alsatian lunch.................Mushroom soup,  Quiche Lorraine, (of course), two types of typical sausages and ham, with sauerkraut----which I didn't know you can make that well, salad, desert (" big warm chocolate") and a cheese plate with fruit and nuts.  Donna will post the picture on her facebook-------------it is amazing!

Betty is keeping up.  yesterday she stayed at the Gite were in with Julia for the day.  She was going to wash her hair, but forgot about it......................The good thing is that where we're staying is like a compound...... a couple of acres, with a pool and fields in the back of it.  We felt OK leaving her here as there was no way she could get out.  JUlia knows "how to go home" so it worked out OK.  It was the first day in two weeks that Donna and I were together alone, and we needed it.  Hoping we get some help when we get back, but not planning on it.

Julia ahs made great friends with the seven sheep next to the property.  They're friendly as anything to us and Julia thinks they're her "sheep buddies".   I was upstairs in the house when Donna, down on the covered patio called up and asked me for her leash (Julia's-----not Donna's)  threw it down to her and she hooked up the dog.  Apparently Julia is related to sheepdogs.........................she climbed through the fence into the sheeps compound when they were at pasture in the field, and herded them into the pen.  (To be honest------I'd have been a proud dad to witness that)  but she got in trouble with Donna, who reprimanded her and put her on a leash.  Donna has pics of that also.

Tomorrow we take off for the south, planning on staying in the Swiss alps, between the Eiger and the Matterhorn for the night.  Weather looks to be a bit rainy there----but to date, while Seattle set a record for September rainfall-------------------AFTER WE LEFT------------we've had perfect weather here.  Been in the high sixties to low seventies the whole time, and today was the first day of sprinkles we had for about a half hour.

See you in Italy!  CIAO!

Hello yeah it's been awhile, not much, how bout you? (England Dan and John Ford Coley) 1976

Left Brugges and headed north to Amsterdam.    Arrived in Amsterdam and Emily led us to the place fairly easily.

Emily was born in the late 90's and hasn't really changed with the times.  She forget that things change, such as round a bouts and new roads.  She's challenged.   She has a tendancy to take on what she knows, rather than what we want.  She has the ability to piss me off quicker than anybody in the world........and that's saying something!

The Netherlands is THE flattest place in the world.  Kansas has more hills than this place.  See some old wind mills, but they're outnumbered by the wind turbines by 1,000 to 1.

The place in Amsterdam is a 2 out of 10.  We usually hit home runs, but this one is a foul out sacrafice bunt.  Entrance is small into a huge living room----and I mean huge.  there is a bedroom in the back and thats where Betty stays as it's right off the bathroom.  (Though at times that makes no difference--------she get discombobulated often.)    there is a small sofe in the living room and a futon that faces the 16 inch TV.  If you sit on the front of the futon, it will tip forward and make you catch yourself.  We did try to put it into the sitting position and were not surprised that it wouldn't go there.

Julia sit's under the desk where we set up the computer, only to come out covered with "dust bunnies" when we move.  the bathroom is huge, but has a good amount of mildew and it looks like the toilet sit's independently and has a push button flush on the side.

But the location is fabulous.  A hundred yards to the canals and the Saturday market.  Our friends Rob and Callandra were here over the summer and reccomended some great restaurants and bars, which we followed.  We did a canal cruise, which was very worth while, walked through the red light district--------Donna's idea-----not mine, and saw more coffee shops than you can imagine.  (Also saw too many people that spent too many formative years in said coffee shops......)


Left Amsterdam and went to the Khroller Muhller Museum---about an hour out of town, on the reccomendation of Rob And Callandra, (Callandra worked at the Seattle Art Museum time since we've known her and her reccomendations go a long way with us). (She knows more about art than anyone we know!)    One room in the museum held no less that 60 Van Goghs------------you can't imagine-------surrounded by rooms holding many other works by the impressionists, and many others.  Incredible!

Betty has been a trooper.  She's been walking up to three or four MILES a day with us, and though we slow our pace, it's pretty amazing.  thank god for Julia!  julia loves the cafes' and restaurants.  She gets to go in, either sit on the floor, or in a chair and usually goes to sleep.

Donna has the patience of a saint with her mother.  (There's times I just want to send her home....)
they have a lot of matching things----------------including purses, shoes, and for all I know.....)
There's a lot of "How long are we staying here?"   Followed 10 minutes later by "How long are we staying here"    Followed by................    It can be difficult---sometime like travelling with a child, but better here............

Really hoping for some support help when we return.......but not counting on it. 

We're in the Alsace today and the place we're staying in is PERFECT!  Totally fenced in with an electric gate to get out.  Bettty wanted to stay in and wash her hair today, so Donna an I had a day together.  There's seven sheep in the adjoining property and Julia is as brave as anything.   Donna took her for a walk and Julia saw them in a pasture..........................behind where we're staying........
three barks and they all headed for the barn...............proudest dog you've ever seen!   Now, when we go out on the grounds, she's balls to the walls for the sheeps pen which adjoins our poperty to make sure that they're paying attention!  IF they got loose, they'd never see her again........Brave to a point.

Brugge

I am amazed.  This is so much better than I ever thought.  The canals, the squares, the fish market, the food, the chocolate.   Incredible.  We're staying about five minutes for the market square, and three from Burg.   The canals are less than a block away, with the tour boats coming by constantly.  The place were staying is owned by Alex who owns the designer furniture store across the strret and the antique furniture store downstairs.  Our furnishing are exquisite, leather chairs, huge sofa dn very comfortable beds.  the spiral stairway up to our room is zebrawood.......

Took Betty to dinner Tuesday night forr her 89th birthday at a great seafood place called Den Breydel between the burg and the market square.  Great food and a surprise sparkler for dessert.  Everyone applauded.

Next morning the local market was in the square when we arrived..............This time just food.  No socks shoes or underwear......picked up some goodies and had them for dinner.  Great sausages, local cheeses, and good bread make for a heck off a dinner. 

Haven't had any chocolate yet...............Alex told us there were only four stores that have real Belgian chocolate and most of the others only use imported products.  We'll see later when we hit them.  Julia loves the outdoor cafes.  She gets her own chair, and usually just goes to sleep after she's settled in.  However, she HATES the horses that draw the carriges through the town, usually hiding directly behind Donna, which is kind of funny.  she actually got up enough nerve today to bark at one, but when it liffted it's head for the grazing bag and looked at her, she didn't seem so brave.

Tomorrow we head fo Amsterdam, which will be the only really large city we hit until Paris.

Brittany

We arrived just in time for the fall harvest, though this time it isn't grapes!  Huge farm machines till the soil and produce truckloads of potatoes.  After the fields are cleared, locals follow and forage pails of potatoes that are left over.  Sugar beets are piled into huge mounds, the size of a house, before the scooped and hauled away.   The golden wheat is stick straight in the sun, or being thrashed in the field before becoming huge rolls for storage.  From a distance, they look like stonehenge.....
Gigantic towers turn the blades of wind tubines nearly everywhere. 

We head over to the coast to visit the sunday market.  The town is charming, with beautiful half timbered houses as we enter............................only to discover that this weekend is the annual Harley-Davidson "Sturgis" really.  More Harleys than cars, they line every sidewalk as far as the eye can see, and then some.   Not too mention loud.  And leather.  And .  And.

Looking forward to Belgium...............

So we hit turbulence over the north atlantic.............

Jamie got us to the airport in plenty of time.  Check in, check the dog in and head to the departure lounge.  Board the plane and off we go.  Betty realizes that it's worth flying in Business class the moment she sits down.  Has a little difficulty with the seatbelt, but settles in for the long haul........
the seat is controlled with a remote.  It's like a weapon in hand.  (She can't turn on the TV at home.)
So we get going and about halfway across the Atlantic we hit some turbulence.  She thinks her seat is shaking, when all of our seat are shaking the same.  the flight attendants appear too fix it...........till the next patch.......Arrive in Frankfurt, clear customs, and bussed to the flight to Paris.  Our bags come off early and out of nowhere comes Julias kennel.  she has a big smile when she's let out and we're on our way.

Rental car is going to be too small............woman at counter says 240 euros more for the larger car, b
ut she'll take 100 euros cash and look the other way.................................well duh!  Not as luxurious as I'd hoped, but a ton of room.

Two hours to the first stop in Brittany.  Kind of a remote burg, with minimal charm, but a large t hree bedroom home with a ton of space.  Good place to get over jet lag, and that's what we plan on doing.  Twelve hours the first night, and by day three we're adjusted.  Couple of day trips, which I'll post later.

Apologies for the non posting.............. our first place was supposed to have wi-fi, but didn't.  Will start tomorrow.......................Just so you know, the characters in this journey are my lovely wife Donna, my mother in law, Betty,  our havanese, Julia Child, and our guide, (GPS), Emily-----who sometimes really PISSES me off.

Stay with us and we'll start posting tomorrow.

PS----We're in Brugges now and Donna has hit it out of the park with the place we're staying, CASA MICHALEANGELO...........